travelogue // dubrovnik.

i interrupt your stream of colors i want to paint my new house posts to bring you your travel guide for august.  or july.  did i skip a month?  let's pretend like i didn't, with the whole pregnancy thing and all.  and without further delay, your travel guide to dubrovnik, should you find yourself there.

and i hope you do.


f r i d a y  / /  t r a v e l  d a y 
since we had done the airbnb in split, we decided to splurge on our hotel in dubrovnik.  we scheduled more time there than anywhere else -- three nights and three full days and an extra evening, since we didn't have to board our ferry on monday until 9pm.  after looking at what felt like a zillion hotels, we decided on the valamar president hotel.  the hotel looked and felt in every capacity like a five star hotel should, and we were not disappointed one bit.

our hotel was on the lapad peninsula, and luckily our rental car drop off was within walking distance for us.   we knew ahead of time that lapad was not too near old town and most of the tourist attractions, but the number six bus picked up across the street from our hotel and stopped right in front of the pile gate.  for dinner we opted not to take the bus and wandered over to a local restaurant, komin, for dinner.   the fish was fresh and delicious -- since our experience in thailand two years ago, we really have a hard time trusting the food at restaurants.  after dinner we enjoyed the view from our hotel and enjoyed a cocktail outside.  bitter lemon for me, haha!


yup, that was the view from our hotel from the pool.  my heaven.

s a t u r d a y  / /  d a y  1 
right away we wanted to get out and see the sights.  we slept in a little, since it was a saturday and all, before enjoying breakfast at our hotel [outside! on the balcony! overlooking the water! did i mention this hotel was a splurge and totally worth it?] and hopping on the bus to the pile gate.



we wandered through the old city, getting lost every chance we could, twisting and turning through ancient alleyways.  each turn was more enchanting than the last.  old bricks with fresh flowers.  so picturesque.  finally it was time for me to eat again [perk of being pregnant on vacation], so we wandered into pizzera oliva.  and holy cow was i glad we did.



hands down, the best pizza we had while we were in croatia.  we didn't eat a lot of pizza there -- we mostly stuck to freshly grilled fish -- but if you find yourself in dubrovnik, stop for pizza at oliva.  tucked in the cutest alley you'll see, shaded all of the tine, with brightly colored chairs and the yummiest pizza you'll have.

after fueling up on pizza, we thought we would walk the city walls.  though it wasn't quite the hottest part of the day, it was pretty close.  there is no shade up there, so be prepared with water bottles and hats and maybe even a little personal fan if you find yourself really sweaty and pregnant like i was.  it's a little daunting to climb up all those stairs in the summer [again, remember, out of shape and pregnant], but ohhhhh my goshhhhh were the views worth it.  you don't have to walk the full walls but can get down at any of the exit points along the way.

but we just couldn't stop with those views.





after working up quite a sweat along the walls, we caught the bus back to our hotel to take a dip in the water.  in retrospect it would have been great to have our swimming clothes with us and a couple of towels -- there were swimming spots all along the city's walls to dip in.

it was dinner time after our dip in the water, so we cleaned up and asked the concierge to help us secure a dinner reservation.  we didn't feel like wandering through the city and not wanting to find a table on a saturday night.  a table was secured for us at konoba posat, right outside the city's walls.  we had quite the view of the walls and the water.  it was a pretty fancy place that served up a mean gilled fish filet.

we walked off our dinner while looking for an ice cream spot, and found just what we were looking for at dolce vita.  walking through the stradun at night, enjoying ice cream... it just didn't get much better than that.

s u n d a y  / /  d a y  2
a day of rest.  on the beach.  we needed a day to decompress after running from spending so much time traveling, walking walls and sightseeing.

it was just what we needed.  the whole day relaxing, swimming and reading.

for dinner, we caught the bus back into the old town and grabbed dinner at mea culpa since we didn't want to do anything fancy.  it wasn't bad... but oliva was much better.  i'd skip it if i were going again.  we walked around the city a little, checking out some parts we didn't see the day before, like the polce gate and the old harbour.  lovely.  we discovered if you walk past the old harbour and follow the path, even when you think it ends [climb over the little wall!] you'll find a secluded little swimming hole.  i wish we had brought our bathing suits yet again.




so the lesson is, anytime you're walking around dubrovnik, bring your bathing suit and towel.

m o n d a y  / /  d a y  3
the great thing about vacations is that you can do whatever you want and change up plans as you see fit.  on monday we had big plans to take a ferry to korcula and spend the day.  we'd be crazy not to go to croatia and not visit any of the islands, people said!  but the thing is, being pregnant makes you not want to do that much.  and sometimes, being on vacation means you don't want to do anything.

so we scratched those plans and sat on the beach again, all day, again.  it was fantastic.

our ferry to bari was scheduled to depart at 10pm on monday night, and we had to be on board by 8pm.  we used the locker rooms at our hotel to rinse off after our day at the beach, grabbed our bags from the concierge and made our way over to yet another new part of dubrovnik, where the cruise ships and ferries dock -- gruz.



we grabbed a quick dinner at amfora, which was walking dinner to the harbor where we boarded our ferry.  our last taste of croatian food -- cuttlefish risotto and cheesy polenta -- did not disappoint.

and with that, we boarded our ferry to italy.

more on the ferry and that... experience.. in the italy travel guide, up next!